The 1mm difference will be really noticeable at the chainring teeth. The only other way is to put a spindle spacer in there that is 2.75mm wide.Īs pictured here, the 22mm to 19mm collar is only 1.68mm thick, and with a 2.75mm boss on the crank, this will cause wobble. I'm not finding any old spiders or chainrings that have a 14mm hole that will sink enough on this. See pic #3 to see the offset this 14mm diameter chainring boss causes on the alignment. Your Profile spider should have a 19mm hole and NO COLLAR if it is like the modern ones on their site, so this might not be the issue. Putting the collar on the other side in between the chainring and bottom bracket will let it act as a spacer on the spindle. This will cause wobble as there is an extra 1-2mm on that lip. AS SHOWN IT IS IN THE WRONG POSITION on the OUTSIDE of the spider/ring (between the spider/ring and crank arm).

GREEN: Old chainrings and sprockets had 22mm holes and shipped with the collar that brings it down to 19mm. Your spider may have an oval cutout like most modern ones, and if it doesn't sit flush with both surfaces of the crank arm (spindle boss and spider boss), then it will wobble as video shows. This is a single pinch earlier set of Flights, so things may be different. RED: the line shows the proper sitting place of the chainring or spider. Just have to deal with the combo and customize as needed.Ībove has the answers, I wanted to put a picture to it. All these things conspire to help or hurt the alignment. You very well could be right about the crank arm bolt hole. Collar edge has to be on the inside to not cause the problem of mis alignment. My Phil wood spider required a adapter to fit my Flight spindle. If I'm following you, it could make a difference if a collar were in the sprocket center hole, which does happen. I'm guessing that the counterbore depth on your spider is wrong. When correctly dimensioned parts are used together, the amount that the spider bolt is tightened won't make any difference in runout.

These two 0.080' offsets cancel so that the sprocket, or spider in your case, ends up flat. This shoulder should also be about 0.080' farther inboard than the inboard surface of the crank is at the spindle. This is designed to match with the shoulder on the pin on the inside of the drive crank. The counterbore is only about 0.080' deep. The hole for the spider bolt in the sprocket has a counterbore in it. Look at the second photo that Draw posted. I suspect that the spider is not designed for these cranks. The teeth of the sprocket moving from side to side is called runout. Which side the sprocket is bolted to the spider won't make any difference in terms of runout.

Redline flight cranks install